Tag Archives: bmibabytrip

A trip into the clouds at Mont Caroux

Travel details: this journey to Toulouse and beyond was part-sponsored by Bmibaby.com. More posts here.

Quick tips for Béziers day trippers

Beziers -21

Yesterday we spent the day in Béziers, a pretty and friendly city, albeit built on rugby, bull-fighting and throat-slitting massacres (during the Crusades, and in the Madeleine church pictured above).

If you find yourself there, here’s what I would recommend:

1. Get this map!
Follow the signs to the Office du Tourisme and pick up ‘Les Sites’ – this is one of the best tourist maps I’ve seen, with easy colour-coded routes offering tours around Romanesque/Gothic buildings, gardens and fountains, the old city and the Golden Age of the 19th Century. You can easily mix and match routes. (Download the map here.)

2. Door knockers
Look out for the door knockers – a local speciality seems to be, ahem, hands on knockers, like this one.

3. Bishop’s eye view
Go through the cloisters at the cathedral to the Bishop’s Garden – there’s a good view looking down from the bluff over the orange rooftops to the river Orb.

4. Penitents Chapel
The Saint Nazaire Cathedral and the Madeleine Church (where the 1209 massacre took place) may be the main events but I found the Penitents Chapel on the Rue du 4 Septembre more charming – with a number of representations of female saints (here is St Germaine and check out this altar) and, strangely, a huge model ship mounted on the back wall.

5. Nine locks
Head for the Canal Du Midi aqueduct behind the train station – you can walk across it for a good view of the cathedral and the River Orb below. Continue on away from town for scenic canal walking and after 1.3km you reach the staircase lock at Fonserannes – a series of nine locks which brings the canal down to the level of the River Orb. It’s well worth a view. There’s also a little cafe serving cold beer at the bottom – welcome after the thirsty walk – plus there’s a good view back to the city.

Travel details: this journey to Toulouse and beyond was part-sponsored by Bmibaby.com. More posts here.

Five of the best Languedoc beaches

Our hosts have been kind enough to give us their pick of the local beaches.

1. Leucat Plage
A wide, sandy Blue Flag beach – usually a lot calmer than this.

Beach day -2

2. Serignan Plage
Another lovely Blue Flag beach. Image: H Anderson

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3. Cabanes de Fleury
A great beach, plus there’s an “excellent pastry shop and fruiterie” at nearby Salles D’Aude.

Cabanes-de-Fleury

4. Racou Plage
A shelving grainy beach on the Vermillion coast, with a view up to the Pyrenées and a short hop to Collioure. Image: Sean Gillies

Le Racou Plage

5. Collioure
“Because you are in the middle of Collioure and Collioure is the gem of the ‘Côte Vermeille’. You can swim in the harbour within the shadows of monastic buildings.” Image: Crabchick

Collioures beach

Travel details: this journey to Toulouse and beyond was part-sponsored by Bmibaby.com. More posts here.

Squids doughnut, om nom nom

A lovely awkward translation this. On the English menu in a Collioure restaurant yesterday was ‘Squids doughnut’. We had to ask for the French menu to discover this was, in fact, calamari. One for your future reference.

Travel details: our journey to Toulouse and beyond was part-sponsored by Bmibaby.com. More posts here.

On pareidolia alert in the South of France

Today’s main activity involved lying flat on my back on several beaches in the South of France and seeing shapes formed in the clouds – aka pareidolia (my new word for today).

So can you tell what it is yet? Three clouds, three guesses…

1.
cloud1.jpg

2.
cloud2.jpg

3.
cloud3.jpg

Answers:

1. Tenuous turtle (it was better 1 min previously, honest.)

5051862163_5bf58b6cba_z
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2. This way.

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3. Ribcage?

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Ok, ok, so here are some better examples of pareidolia, or creepy clouds

Travel details: this journey to Toulouse and beyond was part-sponsored by Bmibaby.com. More posts here.

Life’s a beach – except for gingers

Beach day -3

Blue sky, sunshine and a temperature that is perfecto for gingers like me (average 24 degrees), meant today had to be a BEACH DAY! Better yet, the beaches were near empty. I love it how off-season for other people is when I can go outside and actually sunbathe. June-August is often a frightful bore for the fair-skinned, but the cusp of autumn/winter is just right for old Goldilocks here.

It’s given me the idea for a series of features based on The Ginger Calendar – where is good to go, with temperatures in the early 20s for most of the day and with a sea that isn’t too chilly? Please feel free to post your suggestions/experiences below.

Personally, I think it’s very easy to get wrong and have felt quite restricted on some trips abroad. For example, I once went to the Greek Islands in June and couldn’t go to the beach until 5pm when the sun finally turned the heat down. In reaction, I then made the mistake of going in October, when the beach was only warm enough from 11am-3pm and the sun set at 6ish.

Although the shops at many resorts were mostly closed, let me recommend the South of France in late September, early October. Today we took a picnic to Leucate (pictured) then went for a snooze on Le Racou beach in the far South-west of France, just a hour or two from the Spanish border, and it was lovely. The water could have been warmer and the waves slightly calmer, but the sun strength was just about right. One or two applications of Factor 50 and no frying skin.

Cool.

Travel details: this journey to Toulouse and beyond was part-sponsored by Bmibaby.com. More posts here.

The strange occurrence of the Étang de Montady

Yesterday, on a walkabout near Colombiers, we were presented with this unusual radial farming landscape – the Etang de Montady.

Etang de Montady 1

You can see it more clearly on Google Earth:

Etang-de-Montady-on-Google-.jpg

But what is it? Answer: an ex pond. The area was pretty much a stagnant swamp that was emptied of water in the 13th century via a series of drainage ditches sloping to a lower central point (hence the triangular sundial format). And where does the plughole go? It drains under Malpas Hill and under what is now the Malpas Tunnel, which we also walked through yesterday. Here is the tunnel, housing a stretch of the Canal du Midi:

Tuff (volcanic ash) tunnel 1

The rock you can see is called Tuff, which appears to be a pretty soft geological mix of volcanic ash and other material, giving a weird hole-mottled surface. Anyway, the water (I think) then drains empties into in the Aude River via the ponds of nearby Poilhes and Capestang, releasing 420 hectares of land for agricultural use – check out those vineyards.

Etang de Montady 2

We saw small grape pickup trucks bringing in cabernet sauvignon grapes near Colombiers. Interesting factoid I learnt yesterday: the grapes are blown off the vine by the agricultural equivalent of a Dyson Airblade tractor that looks something like this. Alors, dinnertime – time to go drink some of the local produce.

Travel details: this journey to Toulouse and beyond was part-sponsored by Bmibaby.com. More posts here.

Every journey starts with an airport transfer

Evert journey starts with a small step and (often) an airport transfer…

It’s 4am on the coach from Birmingham to Manchester Airport, which puts me in mind of The 4am Project – so I take a phone snapshot aboard the National Express 422 service. It’s a blurry fail (those lights are the view out the front window) but also kinda pretty. The world at 4am is a whole different kettle of surreal fish – and that’s the point really.

4am Project

Blue neon tunnel on the travelator to Terminal 3. More crazy lights but I like it. It’s a 12 mins walk to checkin, though.

Travelator to Terminal 3

Arcade games at the gate? We’re not in Birmingham now, Toto. Still, the seats are great for kipping on.

Arcade machines, Gate 52

FYI, Gate 52 at Terminal 3, Manchester Airport is also a Defibrillator Station. With my fear of flying (see yesterday’s confessional post), I felt strangely reassured.

Defibrillator, Gate 52

Checking the plane over through the window – it looks shiny and new. Ok then, I’ll board.

BMIbaby Boeing 737-300

One of the swifter boardings, thankfully. It was funny when a crew member changed into her comfortable shoes aboard the flight. Glamour – check.

Gate 52, Manchester Airport

Bmibaby cabin crew action shot!

BMIbaby flight attendant

That’s France down there. (I’m much happier now I’m in the cruise corridor.)

France!

Kiss the pilot, we’ve landed. Toulouse Airport is packed with urban, futuristic chic.

Toulouse airport

The transfer down to the coast is a swift autoroute ride with a viewing point for Carcassonne Castle.

Carcasonne castle

Next step: the holiday.

Bmibaby.com flights to Toulouse from Manchester in October cost between £41 and £63 return, taxes and charges included.

I’m a travel writer with a fear of flying. WTF.

England!

Three weeks ago I was on an overnight, long-haul Emirates flight that hit turbulence somewhere over the Indian Ocean. Even the crew were told to strap in.

After repeating my usual mantra of “cobbled street, cobbled street” for a bit, I realised that this was going to go on a while. I was shivering uncontrollably and feeling a rising anxiety. It didn’t help that I was in a seat on my own, away from the family.

Then I remembered how tired the captain had sounded when he made his pre-take off announcements. This wasn’t good.

Time to go to Defcon 3 – Meditation. I’ve often found a good tactic is to take long, very slow breaths and count them in rounds of ten. I counted four lots of ten, and another five, before the worst of it was over. About 20-30 minutes in total. (The counting is a distraction from thinking about either the imminent crash dive or the sharks circling in the water below.)

After the turbulence started to ease off, I looked around me to share the relief only to find everyone around me fast asleep.

This is what is so utterly annoying about fear of flying. It’s a private hell.

Still, there and then, I decided I’d never fly again.

***

It’s three weeks later. I’m at Gate 52 at Manchester Airport. It’s 6.20am and I’m about to board the flight I promised myself I would never get on.

Because although during that seemingly endless half an hour of turbulence, I was ready to cough up for a Eurostar ticket and a TGV down to the south of France to visit family, once my feet were on firm ground, my irrational fears seemed ridiculous and laughable.

Besides, how cowardly would I be to back out now? For the rest of my days, I would be forced to look back at this moment and see it as a yellow-bellied turning point in my life when I finally gave in to my fears. Worse than that, I could pretty much say goodbye to my travel adventures and writing work.

There was another factor. Bmibaby were offering to fly us anywhere on their network for free. How churlish would it be to turn that down? Especially when all they were asking was that we went and had a great time and blogged a bit about the trip.

***

It’s hard to explain fear of flying to anyone who doesn’t have it.

The anticipation of flying can be crippling, wiping out all enjoyment until you land. There are crash dreams ahead of time and imaginary or media images of crash sites that pop into your head mid-flight.

But that’s just the start of it. I personally check the plane’s exterior for cracks in the fuselage before boarding. I also run-through all members of my family as the plane powers up down the runway to the point of no return – just in case.

Uncalled for, I remember Concorde, Lockerbie, 9-11, last month’s plane crash in Nepal.

I cross my fingers, fidget and say a prayer to the Catholic god of my childhood.

After take-off, I count 22 minutes until I feel safe – the time of a crash I once heard about on the news.

I uncross my fingers, and have to sit straight up in my seat, while simultaneously craning my neck out of the window to see that we are actually moving forward. My ears are on animal alert for changes in engine noise.

Talking with other passengers or even my own co-travellers is an annoying distraction as it breaks my concentration. But books and magazines aren’t engaging enough for my crash-focused brain. I remember Red Dwarf’s emergency procedures of taking out airline magazines and intently reading features on, for example, Turkey’s blossoming wine industry.

Since 2001 and a bereavement, I’ve also taken Valium to get me on the plane.

It’s horrible the emotional wringer flying puts me through. And it’s exhausting.

Fortunately, there is a ‘but’…

***

I think it is important to keep facing this phobia and not to let it shut me down. So despite everything I still get on the plane.

I do this knowing the fear will be gone once I’m there. And the nausea will be forgotten – at least until next time. I’ve probably failed in explaining how debilitating it can be, but it is what it is, and I have to deal with it.

So here I go again. A travel journalist with a phobia of flying.

Ironic, isn’t it.

***

Kiss the captain! A big, big thankyou to Captain Mark Dixon of BMIbaby, who navigated high cross winds on takeoff to cruise us smoothly onward to Toulouse, landing the plane safely an hour and 35 minutes later. Now at last I can enjoy the holiday.

As if there was anything to be worried about really. :)

And thankyou to also to Bmibaby.com, who have sponsored this trip. Trip info and prices to come in a future post.

Meanwhile here are some photos I took of the transfer from Birmingham to Manchester Airport at 3am today (now shifted to a separate post ‘Every journey starts with an airport transfer‘) – it’s time to feature all the bits that a travel writer rarely covers.

How nice is Toulouse Airport, for example!